Exercise & Fitness

The Luce douyan climber’s climbing adventure begins with a dream

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A luce climber has had a dream that would change his life forever.

It was December last year and his mother had just flown back from a trip to Italy with her husband.

Luce had a serious back problem that required him to be fitted with a brace and a collar and had to go to hospital for treatment.

After surgery, his jaw had to be adjusted and he was told he would never walk again.

His mother had come to Australia to visit him, and he hadn’t heard from her since.

“When I got to the carpark I thought, ‘oh God, I’m so sorry,'” he said.

“It was like a dream come true.

I thought ‘I’ll never have to tell her that I’ve been hurt again.'”

A day after arriving in Melbourne, he got a call from his GP.

“She said I was going to be out in a week, she said she’d call me back.

I rang her and she said, ‘what happened?'”

She told me he had suffered a back injury and he’d have to have surgery.

“I said ‘what surgery?’

She said, you know what, you can do it on your own.

She said that’s great, she had a good surgeon who could do it.”

Luce decided to do it himself and began to climb.

The first day he climbed a new route, and was immediately struck by how far he had climbed.

“There’s no way you can see the route,” he said, “and there’s no point trying to make sense of it.”

So I went home and got a bit of a headache, went to bed and when I woke up the next morning I had climbed an 8.8 grade.

“After his first ascent, Luce knew he needed to do a second one.”

A lot of people are like ‘oh no, I’ll never climb that’,” he said “but it’s not for me.

I want to be able to do this on my own.

“His plan was to climb to the summit of the face, but then he realised the only way to get there was by using the same route as his first one.

A month later, after climbing to the top of the summit, he decided to take the same advice and climbed another 8.9 grade route.”

That’s where it got crazy, it was the hardest 8.5 grade route I’d ever done,” he says.”

And then I realised, ‘you know what?

I can do that.’

“He climbed to the bottom of the first route, took the same step, climbed another 9.5 and climbed the rest of the route.

The next day, he climbed the same 6.8 pitch and made the climb again, and the next day he made the same climb, but the same difficulty.”

At that point I knew I’d got to it,” he explains.”

The idea of just trying to get to the peak of a route, you just don’t know when that will happen.

“You just don.

And so I decided I’d try to make the climb a little bit harder so that I could get it done.”

A few days later, he found himself on top of a 6.6 grade route he’d just climbed on.

“For me it was very exciting,” he recalls.

“This is my first big climb I’ve ever done, I’ve never done that before.

It’s something I’m really proud of.”

After he’d climbed it, he began to notice something else that had changed.

“After the last one, it wasn’t as hard as I thought it was,” he remembers.

“Every day it felt like I could climb harder, but I was like, ‘that’s not going to happen.'”

It’s a real achievement.

You do things like this where you can feel that you’ve got something to prove.

“Lue said it was only when he started using the exact same route, the same way, every day, for the next year that he was able to climb the route to the same height.”

My whole life I’d always tried to do something new, I just wanted to climb something,” he explained.”

If you go on a route you’re not used to and you want to get it down, that’s when you’ll be at the top.

“All of a sudden I was in the top three, that was pretty amazing.

It was so much better than when I started.”

He said he now believed in his ability to climb things and that he could do anything.

“To be able climb a 5.14a route in my first year and be able go on and do it again in the next four years was a real testament to my ability,” he believes.

“Even though I’ve always wanted to do that, I still have this drive to do stuff, I want people to know I’m here.

I’m going to do whatever it takes to